PARIS There is an enormous void in the heart of Paris.
The millions of visitors who walk over, around, and through the empty space every year take little notice, and most are only dimly aware they tread where a grand palace, home to kings and emperors, once stood. It is just not there after all.
But when the great Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei was commissioned to rethink, restore, rebuild, and, one might almost say, resurrect the Louvre Museum in the 1980s, that nothingness became something of an obsession.
Whats missing is the Tuileries Palace, the royal residence that once formed the western side of the Louvre complex. Without it, the symmetry of the city, the harmony, the feng shui, if you will, is seriously askew.
Imagine, for a moment, that this is 1870. If you stood at the front door of the Tuileries and looked in the general direction of the setting sun your eye traveled straight down the main promenade through the Tuileries Gardens, through the Place de la Concorde, where an obelisk stands like the needle in a gun sight, and on upward along the Avenue des Champs Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe.
Such was the Grand Axis of Paris, the spine of a city that dearly loves its classical proportions, grand perspectives, and carefully calculated geometry.
Goethe, alluding to the Pythagorean roots of harmony, both aural and visual, said, Architecture is frozen music. Part of the wonder of walking through Paris is its architectural harmony, like a frozen classical symphony.
But in this part of the city, once you took away the Tuileries Palace, things didnt quite line up anymore. The rest of the Louvre complex, developed on much older foundations, is not square with the axis.
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