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Edited on Thu Nov-29-07 12:09 AM by happyslug
Like all plant fibers, Hemp, Linen and Cotton are great at absorbing Moisture (i.e. Sweat) but terrible at getting rid of it. Cotton is actual four times stronger soaking wet then when it is Dry (Hemp and Linen does NOT hold as much water as Cotton Can). Thus the Army in Vietnam used rip stop cotton, a very thin cotton so the cotton could NOT get to heavy with moisture with the strength improved by the Nylon threads every 1/4 inch. These did rip easily, but the nylon thread would STOP most rips (Then the soldier had to turn in the Uniform for a new one, or sew the hole up till he could get it replaced).
I have used Rip Stop Cotton and poly-Cotton mixes. The higher the percentage of polyester, the hotter the clothing will be and the longer it will last. The higher the Percentage of Cotton the cooler it will be, but with a drop is usable life. Surpassingly the best mix is about 10% Polyester, this strengthen the Cotton or wool so it last much longer, but almost all of the good characteristics of Cotton and wool (and other natural fibers) are preserved. The US Army wool socks were 10% Nylon for Decades (and may still be). The combination worked. The wool still did its job of absorbing Sweat AND GETTING RID OF SWEAT, and the nylon lengthen the useful life of the Sock.
I have purchased non-issue BDUs with various combination of Polyester and Cotton, if you drop below 50% Cotton it is like wearing a plastic bag, the clothing just retains sweat and you can see the droplets on the inside of the pants. When the Cotton exceeded 50%, the pants were noticeably cooler in the shade.
Please note Color is a MAJOR factor in BDUs coolness, the Green, Black and Brown BDUs I was issued just absorbed all of the heat of the sun, you notice it when you went from the Shade to the open Fields. This was true of even the Rip-stop Cotton (through being thiner and cooler, more comfortable then the 50/50 Poly-Cotton BDUs). When I purchased Poly-Cotton pants in light Khaki, it was noticeable cooler than the Black/Brown/Green BDUs I had used previously. The reason for this is that Khaki being a LIGHT Color reflects more of the Sun rays than Black, Greens and Browns (It was for this reason British Troops in India adopted it in the late 1800s and from there spread around the world with most armies by WWI). I mention this for do to the the fact Color does affect what a piece of Cloth can absorb in heat, when I compare two types of Cloth I MUST try to make the comparison fair. When I am Discussing Cotton vs Poly-Cotton I therefore MUST compare both as they operate in the SHADE, unless the Colors are the same. Since I left the Military I still buy BDUs for biking, hiking and other outdoor activities. I have switched to Khaki Poly-Cotton BDUs for their coolness in Summer (Through in the height of Summer I wear Khaki Rip-Stop). Most are 60% Cotton instead of the Army's 50% Cotton, and I suspect this help them be cooler, but the main reason is the COLOR (I like the Ply-Cotton BDU pants for their are thiner than Jeans and thus absorb less Sweat and keep me warm in the Winter and like the Army I like the fact Poly-Cotton pants can last for YEARS. Having said that Poly-Cotton (at least 50% Cotton) is the best value for Fall, Winter and Spring use. It is usable in Summer provided the Temperatures and Humility are NOT to high, but if temperatures and Humidity is high, even Khaki Poly-Cotton is to hot (and by to high I mean 80 degrees).
Hemp and Linen can be used to replace Cotton, both had been used as such in the past. Cotton only became the preferred product with the invention of the Cotton gin which permitted quick and cheap separation of Cotton Seeds from Cotton Balls. The Cotton Balls can then be processed into Thread by simple spinning, after some minor cleaning, and then weaved into Cloth. Hemp and Linen must be processed with more care. I suspect Hemp is processed much like Linen, but I have NOT read how that process is done. With Linen the Flax is first cut and then processed into long thin strips and then and only then spin into Threads and then weaved onto Cloth.
When I go to historical houses that try to show them as people lived in the 1700s, you always see Spinning wheels and are told that the women and girls spin Flax into Threads and then took those Threads to a Weaver who weaved them into Cloth. You almost get the impression the women and Girls did all the work, while their Husbands, Fathers and Brothers just sat around doing nothing. The reason for this is Spinning Wheels were expensive and every woman had one. It was a source of Income for the family. The Threads she made was "Sold" to the Weavers who had the weaving Machines, who then "Sold" part of the Thread back to the Women in the form of Cloth (No actual money exchanged hands, She gave the Weaver her Threads, he gave her most of it back in the form of Cloth, but so much of the Cloth was kept by the Weaver as his price for weaving the material.
Anyway, where was the Brothers, Fathers, Sons and Husbands? Hunting in the Woods? Playing Games in the Fields? Dressing and Undressing (to much Monty-Python for me)? No, they had part in the process of the Cloth. They cut the Flax and then took it to the barn where their equivalent of the Spinning Wheel was. It was a flat piece of wood with dozens of nails nailed upward through the wood. This was also secured to something solid, for the men had the duty to take the Flax, slam it down onto this collection of nails and then pull the flax through the collection of nails. The men did this all day long, flipping the Flax to make sure BOTH ends of the Flax went through the Collection of Nails. The whole purpose of this was to make the flax thiner and thiner, for the thiner the flax was the better quality the thread it was to become would be. The men ran any flax plant through this collection of nails DOZENS of time before it was fit for their Sisters/mothers/Wives/Daughters could spin it into Thread.
Now farmers were know to re-cycle things they could and hold onto things they used in the past, but no longer had a use for. With the advent of the Cotton Gin, you no longer had to bet Flax into Thread, cotton could be made into thread and Cloth at much lower prices. Thus as Cotton expanded its use after 1800, the above processed tended to be undermined. Women kept their Spinning wheels for they had no other use for them, while the men took apart the collection of nails and reused the nails for various projects around the farm. Thus the Collection of nails disappeared (for the farmers had another use for the nails) but Spinning wheels survived for very few people had another use for the parts of the Spinning wheel.
I go into the above to show you the difference is HOW cotton and linen are made into cloth. Linen (and I suspect Hemp) takes more effort to make into thread and cloth. This was the main reason Hemp and linen declined is usage from the early 1800s till today. On the other hand Linen (and I suspect Hemp) are very long fibers, sometimes a couple of feet long (Hemp longer then Linen do to Hemp being from a larger growing plant). Cotton is a very short fiber, rarely more then several inches. When strength and the ability to slide over other clothing was needed linen was used (Silk fibers are even longer, but much more expensive, so linen was preferred, Nylon has even longer fibers but none of the absorption ability of the Natural Fibers, Kevlar fibers is even longer and why it was the preferred material in body armor, the fibers spread out the pull of the bullet, making the material more resistant to tears from bullets and other sources). Please note artificial threads are known to be degradable in direct sunlight, Nylon for example will last less then a month if exposed to direct sun light. Thus even since Nylon was invented in the 1930s it MUST be coated with a material that reflects sunlight, with such a coating it can last for decades. Natural Fibers work well in Sunlight.
Hemp as a Cloth is just inferior to Linen and Cotton. The Chief reason for this is Hemp does NOT slide as easily as Cotton or Linen. Cotton and Linen will slide easily over a smooth surface (Through in this regard Silk is considered Better), but this inferior ability to slide is also Hemp's Strength. It was the main reason Hemp was the main material for Ropes for Centuries.
When I was in the Army, the Army insisted on using Hemp rope on the tie downs of all of its trucks. The reason for this is Hemp not only does NOT Stretch as much as any other natural fiber (i.e Cotton or Linen), its surface resist sliding against itself or any other surface. Thus you can tie down a Army's truck cloth top with a easy and quick tie down relying on this Resistance to slide. You pulled the rope, pulled the rope underneath the tie down, and around the top and back underneath. You then pulled the rope through the V shaped opening at the rear of the tie down till it would go no further. Let me describe the Metal Tie-down on a army 2 1/2 truck (Each truck had 6, three on each side). The Metal tie down was solid piece of Steel that attached to the outside bed of the truck, turned to the Front of the truck and then made a circle for the rope to go around then back to itself (Completing the Circle) and then away from itself to form a open V. The tie-down was about 2-4 inches in size, through the metal probably ran about 12 inches total for it ran back, around and forward within about 4 cubic inches.
Hemp rope could use these tie downs, all you did was run the rope around the tie down and then through the V, till it could go no further. The Resistance of Hemp to slide kept the rope tied down till someone came around to untie the rope by reversing the above action. Nylon Ropes were stronger, but could NOT be used in such tie-downs (The rope would slide and undo itself). The Army wanted to be able to undo the Tarps quickly, thus knots were avoided in this application. This Resistance to sliding is Hemp's big advantage over other materials, and used in applications when this Resistance is needed to this day (as in Army 2 1/2 ton Trucks tarps).
My point, is Hemp is a very good material, but Cotton and Linen are better for clothing, but it has its place where Resistance to sliding is needed. Nylon is much stronger, but it is slick and thus slides.
I know a long talk to get to the point of NOT using Hemp, but when you advocate something know its weakness (Which is often its Strengths), in the case of Hemp, its greater Resistance to sliding makes in a poor choice for Clothing, but the same Resistance makes it a good choice for ropes and other applications where such Resistance is needed or just wanted.
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