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I've only heard Livre de Saint Sacrament live, and of course it was magnificent. (I was up in the balcony, eye level with the big pipes, and the sound just rolled right over me. Magnificent!)
But my favorite? Usually it's Nativite du Seigneur. Sometimes it's Le Banquet Celeste, with that breathtaking bass note at the very end.
I think I have the sheet music to Apparition around someplace-- at least, I remember buying it at a library sale or some such thing. I never sat down and studied it, however-- I read real poorly anyway, and the score had a weird feature where the stem of an eighth note bifurcated and led to two different heads. (I think it was intended to be a cluster, but I wasn't sure. At the time I didn't have a recording of the piece to verify it, and I haven't encountered those pages since I got the piece on CD.)
I think it's interesting that Messaien sees himself as a melodist. I hear him as a sort of evangelical Varese. And I mean that in the fondest possible sense.
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