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lizziegrace Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Jan-19-08 12:52 PM
Original message
Car question - checking the oil
1994 Honda Accord with 175,000 miles. It's leaking oil from the back of the engine, so I keep adding oil as needed.

Today the windchill is 10 and the temp tonight will be 0. It starts better in the cold than my Taurus and the mileage is better, so I'm driving it for a while.

Question is, when should I check the oil? Warm it up first or check when it's cold...

I've been advised both ways. :shrug:
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flvegan Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Jan-19-08 12:56 PM
Response to Original message
1. Check the oil when the engine is warm.
Leaking from the back of the engine? How badly?
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lizziegrace Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Jan-19-08 01:00 PM
Response to Reply #1
3. about 1/2 quart every 2 weeks
Edited on Sat Jan-19-08 01:02 PM by lizziegrace
When I have the timing belt and water pump replaced, they can get to the seals and fix it.

I was planning on doing it this month, but an exhaust pipe literally split and exhaust was coming out from between the front wheels. New pipe welded and it's fine.

The car's been hit from the rear 3 times and replaced 3 times. I hydroplaned one day (more than a block to stop going 25mph) and as a result, the front front-end was replaced. The car looks good. It's been a nightmare as far as Hondas go. Oh, and a new transmission over a year ago and ball joints and speedometer head and and and...

I have to just drive the wheels off it. If a carfax was run on it, you wouldn't touch it. ;)
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zabet Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Jan-19-08 12:59 PM
Response to Original message
2. Warm.
If the leak at the rear seal is
bad enough, look to having it replaced.
In some vehicles, it is a 2 pc deal, make
sure they pull it and replace both parts.
Also, there is a possibility that the main
bearings on the crankshaft are worn and may
actually beat the new seal back out in a
short time. If this is the case, have them
replaced at the same time.
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jmowreader Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jan-21-08 09:18 PM
Response to Reply #2
6. If your main bearings are bad, that's a hell of a repair
Replacing main bearings is no mean feat...

take off all the shit that's under the engine including both drive axles, because in a Honda you can't get the oil pan off otherwise
pull the oil pan
pull the transmission
unbolt the flywheel and the crankshaft pulley
drop the crankshaft and have it turned (take the old bearings with you
reassembly is the reverse of removal

I think if it was my car, I'd pull the engine and do a complete longblock overhaul.
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lizziegrace Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jan-21-08 09:49 PM
Response to Reply #6
8. I had to put a new transmission in it just over a year ago
didn't have the money then to have additional repairs. And at the time, it was only leaking from the front. Leaking from the rear is a relatively new phenomenon...

I've done the speedo head, transmission, ball joints, distributor cap, plug and wires 3 times, exhaust work and on and on. And it's been hit and repaired 3 times. If the leak can be repaired when the timing belt/water pump is done, great. If not, I'll just add oil until it isn't worth it any more.

I'm struggling to pay $3/gallon for oil for heat. I don't have any more money to put into this car.
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jmowreader Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jan-22-08 08:51 PM
Response to Reply #8
12. Try this first...
Most if not all auto parts stores sell "Oil Stop Leak." It's this goop you put in your oil that's supposed to keep it in the engine where it belongs. Sometimes that helps, and it's about $3.
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lizziegrace Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Jan-19-08 01:03 PM
Response to Original message
4. oh, and I've always checked it when it was warm
:)

I hate getting conflicting opinions and recently got one. :(
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lizziegrace Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Jan-19-08 01:07 PM
Response to Original message
5. Gotta get some errands run
I'll check it after it warms up a bit.

Thanks all!

:hi:
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SPKrazy Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jan-21-08 09:35 PM
Response to Original message
7. warm lizzie
and off of course
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lizziegrace Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jan-21-08 09:50 PM
Response to Reply #7
9. :-P
that's no fun...
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triguy46 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jan-21-08 10:06 PM
Response to Original message
10. My vote is warm. And my advice is stay close to home. And take oil with you.
Edited on Mon Jan-21-08 10:07 PM by triguy46
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lizziegrace Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jan-22-08 09:09 PM
Response to Reply #10
14. I don't drive it far or often
I bought a used 2000 Taurus in May. Just trying not to run the wheels off the Ford since I have a 50/day commute and the Honda gets much better gas mileage.

Oh, and there's a 5quart container of oil in the trunk at all times. :)
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triguy46 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jan-22-08 09:43 PM
Response to Reply #14
17. Good. You're attitude is correct, IMHO...
drive the wheels off it. When its dead, bury it. It may cost $50 to haul it off to the boneyard, at least that is what it costs out here in rural 'murrica.
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Starbucks Anarchist Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jan-21-08 10:07 PM
Response to Original message
11. No idea, but I used to drive an Accord myself.
:toast:
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Throd Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jan-22-08 09:06 PM
Response to Original message
13. Check it when it is cold.
When the engine is cold you will get an accurate reading of what is in the oil pan. If the engine has been recently run there will be a fair amount of it in the valvetrain, cam shaft, etc.
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Ahpook Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jan-22-08 10:30 PM
Response to Reply #13
18. That's what i have always thought:)
Although, on super cold days i don't know?
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PeaceNikki Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jan-22-08 09:09 PM
Response to Original message
15. Wait until the engine has been off for at least 15 minutes
When checking oil, wait until the engine has been off for at least 15 minutes so that the oil has drained to the oil pan. This ensures an accurate reading. Checking the oil immediately after driving may give a false low reading because much of the oil is still in the engine components.

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/en_maintenance/article/0,2021,DIY_13808_2270917,00.html
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CreekDog Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jan-22-08 09:19 PM
Response to Original message
16. check it while it's warm, but turn off the engine for a few minutes before
1) it's safer to check while the engine is not running
2) the oil in the engine drains down into the crankcase after the engine is stopped (when you check it you are checking the level in the crankcase)
3) check on level ground

I have found that one quickie lube place near me always checks the oil immediately after I turn off the engine and as I'm pulling up to their shop (slightly uphill). Magically, they say, "your oil is low"..."you should try our oil system cleaner...". So, couple times I checked it at home in the morning, it wasn't low, went to that shop, they gave me same old song and dance and I told them, "look you haven't even let the oil back into the crankcase, you've got me stopped on an incline --that's why the oil level looks low. checking it at home it was fine."

Anyway, FYI.
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