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Beware the Beast Man Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Mar-09-05 11:52 PM
Original message
So I'm thinking about building a PC-
And I was looking for input/guidance to see if I am on the right track with some of my choices. I still have a few months of preparation, and I have spent the last couple months doing some research and trying to brush up on my terminology.
Basically, I'll be using this PC for home recording, a bit of gaming and the usual mundane tasks (like surfing DU). I'm on a budget of no more than $1000 on the tower, if I can help it (I'm aiming as low as possible). Here are the parts I had in mind (and remember, these could change with your feedback, if necessary):

1. CASE
Aspire X-Dreamer II(Black) ATX Mid-Tower Case with 350W Power Supply, With Window, Model "ATXB4KLW-BK/350"
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=11-144-026&depa=1

2. MOTHERBOARD
ASRock "P4V88 RAID" VIA PT880 Chipset Motherboard for Intel Socket 478 CPU
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=13-157-034&depa=1

3. CPU
Intel Pentium 4/ 3.0E GHz 800MHz FSB, 1MB L2 Cache, Hyper Threading Technology
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=19-116-171&depa=1

4. HARD DRIVE:
Maxtor Ultra Series Kit 200GB 7200RPM IDE Hard Drive, Model L01P200, Retail
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=22-144-317&depa=1

4. CD/DVD BURNER
Samsung 16X DVD±RW, Model TS-H552B/WRCH Black, Retail
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=27-151-055&depa=1 (I'll probably add another drive as needed)

5. MEMORY
I'm not sure if I should start with a single 1G memory card or two 512MBs. Let me know!
Rosewill 184-Pin 1GB DDR PC-2100, Model RW266/1024 - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=20-223-022&depa=1

6. SOUND CARD
M-Audio Audiophile 2496 PCI Digital Audio Card
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/fg=42/g=home/search/detail/base_pid/701341/

7. VIDEO CARD-
I am completely clueless. I plan on doing some gaming, graphics editing and photo editing, so I definitely need help in this category.

8. SOFTWARE-
The obvious: Windows XP, Norton Anti-Virus and if anyone can recommend a good anti-spy-ware program, I'd appreciate it. Oh, and I'll be getting Acid Pro 5, of course.

I'm not too concerned with peripherals just yet. I'll probably use my existing monitor and speakers in the mean time, and I should be pretty self-reliant when it comes time to get a new keyboard and mouse.

Like I said, if you see some things in my list that don't gel, please let me know.

The help is much appreciated. Thanks! :hi:


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Digit Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 01:26 AM
Response to Original message
1. I am no expert....
I am no expert, but the power supply sounds alittle weak for my tastes.
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RoyGBiv Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 02:02 AM
Response to Original message
2. Lots of opinions ...
You'll end up with lots of varied opinions, so I'll try to keep my comments focused on things I have personally experienced.

First, are you married to the idea of a Pentium? I ask not to get into the AMD v. Intel debate, but to suggest that if you are willing to go with an AMD (which, in all honesty, I prefer), you can get what is probably the superior Socket A motherboard out there.

Which is to say I recommend the http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=13-131-478&depa=0">ASUS "A7N8X-E Deluxe" for a motherboard. Google reviews of it and benchmarks comparing it. It's a little more expensive than the one you have selected, but you will not have problems with it, and the chipset it uses caters to the kinds of things you are wanting to do. I've built my own system around this after trying several others and am continually finding new things about it I like.

The AMD 3000+ "Barton" 400fsb is cheaper than the processor you chose, has a similar performance, and combined with this motherboard will exceed the performance of the combo you have selected.

As for a graphics card, if you want to play modern games smoothly, you need at least a Radeon 9600 or above or a GeForce 6600 or above. Debate rages about which is better. Suffice to say they both have strengths and weaknesses. It varies from task to task. FWIW, if you decide on the motherboard I suggest, the GeForce is a more natural fit with the drivers, but I happen to run a Radeon in mine with no problems.

General comments on the other things:

I built a machine with that case, and it was nice to work with. You will need to purchase a 120mm fan for the back vent. Airflow in it improves dramatically and will keep the CPU you're wanting cool. The PS is okay for your needs at the moment. If you add drives, you may want to upgrade to a better one.

I have that DVD/CD in my machine and have placed it in five others now. It works very well. No coasters for me at all so far. It's not lightning fast for burning DVD movies, but it does fine for data. No issues with reading.

What memory you get depends on what the prices are at any given moment and how much you eventually want. In general, one stick is better than two, but that's not always true. At present, for one gig of memory, the one stick solution is so much more expensive, I don't personally see the point unless you're going to want more than 1.5 gigs at some point.

Another point about memory: get the PC-3200. The price difference is negligible. (Actually, right now, PC-3200 from newegg is cheaper than the slower sticks with some brands.) The performance difference is noticeable. You do not want to get a high performance processor and have it slowed down by the memory, which is what you've got going there.

BTW, the on-board sound with the motherboard I recommended is exceptional for onboard sound. It's 6.1 support means good surround performance. I upgraded to an Audigy ZS Platinum, but I'm not sure the sound card you chose is any better than the onboard sound on the motherboard you picked.
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jayfish Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 11:58 AM
Response to Reply #2
7. I Second Your Opinions. I would...
also skip the Rosewill memory and go with Crucial.

http://www.crucial.com/store/listmodule.asp?module=DDR+PC3200&Attrib=Package&cat=RAM

2x512MB PC3200 chips at 68.99/ea. =$137.98 which is cheaper than the Rosewill/Newegg stick. Crucial is not the fastest stuff out there but for reliability I swear by them.
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RoyGBiv Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 12:47 PM
Response to Reply #7
8. Crucial is good ...

I don't know anything about Rosewill, so I didn't comment.

I've also used the Corsair Value with a great deal of success.

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jayfish Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Mar-11-05 03:44 PM
Response to Reply #8
22. Crucial Has Always Been...
been a good over-clocker for me too. I always run it out of spec. for CAS latency and FSB speed.

Jay
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Beware the Beast Man Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 01:22 PM
Response to Reply #2
11. As far as CPUs, I just went with what I knew.
But you (and others here) are making a convincing arguement for AMD. The general consensus is that the processor speed doesn't matter much because the AMD stacks up much better in overall quality than Intel.
I agree with the power supply issue, too. I thought 350W was a bit weak myself.

Thanks!
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RoyGBiv Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Mar-11-05 12:31 AM
Response to Reply #11
19. AMD v Intel

Since we've broached the subject, I'll definitely suggest you go with AMD. Outside of marketing rhetoric, Intel processors have to work faster just to keep up with the efficiency of an AMD processor. The way it reads with all the marketing crap, the AMD processors lag behind the Intel, but somehow manage to keep up, when in reality the AMD processor doesn't have the need to be as fast as the Intel processor.

What it boils down to is that the Intel uses more power and generates more heat, creating more issues for you to deal with.

The PS in that case *is* weak, but it will run what you are thinking about buying, barely. I would, if I were you and had the money, go ahead and get that case and get a better PS at the same time, saving the PS that comes with it as a backup. (Spare parts are never a bad thing.)

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jayfish Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Mar-11-05 03:50 PM
Response to Reply #19
23. Yes...
AMD is the way to go. Also don't buy into the stability myth. Depending on the chipset being used it might take a little more time and effort to dial-in but once they are stable, they stay that way. I've been and AMD user since the 386DX-40. The two I have now (and one at work) are the most stable PC's I've ever owned/used. It took awhile to get there on one of them but it's been worth it.

Jay
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RoyGBiv Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 02:04 AM
Response to Original message
3. PS : Software

Avoid Norton. You'll be wasting money on an inferior product that will not keep your system as safe as it claims it does. Free programs like AVG work better. If you want to spend money on anti-virus, spend it on the pro-version of AVG or something similar.

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Maestro Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 07:02 AM
Response to Original message
4. See this thread
Some advice

You are going to have to up that power supply if you get a high end vid card. Secondly, I prefer AMD, best bang for the buck unless you go really high end on the cpu, and either Intel or AMD is expensive at that level. Set yourself up with AVG anti-virus and SpyBot anti-spyware program with Sygate's Personal Firewall and you will be relatively well protected. If you are building from scratch go ahead and install XP Service Pack 2 as well. XP 2 doesn't have many if any problems when installed from a new build; at least I haven't.

As far as the memory goes, I would go for something a bit higher end to compliment your processor. But make sure you go with a brand name maker. Bad memory can ruin any system. I am not familiar with the mobo so I really can't say anything to that respect.

As far as your vid card, get as much power as you can without overwhelming your processor. I would recommend what I mention in the above link.

More questions...just ask.
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Beware the Beast Man Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 06:01 PM
Response to Reply #4
13. Do you suggest buying a power supply separately from the case?
If so, how many watts should I go with?
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Maestro Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 08:31 PM
Response to Reply #13
14. Really, it depends.
My latest rig was built by Velocity Microand I chose which psu to go in the case. If you are doing your own build I would buy the best psu that your money can buy. If you get a high end card I would go with at least 480 watts just to be safe. Here is a pic of my rig:

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RoyGBiv Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Mar-11-05 12:22 AM
Response to Reply #14
17. Sweet ...

I'm a true techno pervert. I find that picture erotic. :-)

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Maestro Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Mar-11-05 06:37 AM
Response to Reply #17
20. techno porn
;)
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RoyGBiv Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Mar-11-05 12:19 AM
Response to Reply #13
16. PS and Cases ...
As Maestro said, it depends.

When you're looking at the cases at newegg, don't even think about the PS that comes with it. Only with the high-end cases ($100+) are you going to be getting a high-end PS. The case you're thinking about buying is perfectly fine, has good airflow potential, allows enough room to work in, and it looks cool. If you like it, stick with it. The PS in the thing is truly cheap. By itself, it would cost $10 or less wholesale.

But, it will run what you're thinking about getting. I put together a system for someone using that same case and PS. It had the mobo/CPU I recommended, the DVD/CD drive you listed, a Seagate 120GB HD, 512MB memory, and a 9600XT Radeon graphics card. No problems. The AMP and voltage readings are stable across the different connections, which is actually more important than the raw wattage rating.

And that brings me to my point. The wattage rating is only a casual measurement of the quality of a PS. Many a 400W PS is inferior to a 350W. Look at the AMP ratings, the cooling system, and the voltages. I use a 350W Thermaltake PS with dual fans rated at 12A. It is superior, and will run more hardware more efficiently, than the standard 450W PS with the 6A rating that came with the case I bought.

I liked the case for every reason except the PS, but I put my system together using the PS that came with it. It worked pretty well except when the graphics and sound were taxed hard. I upgraded the PS (and in the process downgrade in wattage) a few months later to the one I mentioned and have had no problems since.

In short, don't worry a lot about the PS that comes with the case you want. Worry about air flow, space, the look of it, sharp edges, features, etc. The PS it comes with will power what you are talking about putting together for now. If you have the money up front, go ahead and get the better PS and replace the one that comes with the case you want.

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SKKY Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 07:08 AM
Response to Original message
5. Not a bad rig, but I would change a couple of things...
...Make sure you put in a few extra fans for your case as the 478 chips can run hot, especially with the stock fan. Get an aftermarket fan and some Arctic Silver and you'll be fine. The other thing I would change is the hard drive. Why not go with a SATA drive? Couple of advantages with that. First, it's faster, much faster. Secondly, since the cable connecting the drive to the SATA Head is small, it'll be easier to tie it off somewhere, ensuring max air flow through the case. Best of luck.
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landdaddy Donating Member (473 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 08:29 AM
Response to Original message
6. 400 watt PSU min
Consider the newer AMD's. 64 bit socket 939's are becoming affordable with either an Epox or Soltek mobo. Ghz ratings are misleading between Intel and AMD. AMD is the stronger performer at a lower Ghz rating.
Check out the Lite-On laser devices which I have used for years with nary a problem. Also go with a good HSF such as the new Thermalright XP-90.
Could add more but I'll leave it there.
Happy computing!
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Beware the Beast Man Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 12:48 PM
Response to Original message
9. Thanks for the feedback so far, folks.
I'm taking everything into consideration so far. :thumbsup:
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jayfish Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 01:17 PM
Response to Reply #9
10. One More Suggestion.
I would go with an SATA Hard Drive over the and IDE unit. It's should be much faster and is also cheaper.

http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=22-144-357&depa=1

Jay

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landdaddy Donating Member (473 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 01:51 PM
Response to Reply #10
12. I agree
Just switched to a WD SATA myself and transferring my IDE boot drive to SATA boot drive was done within windows using the WD data lifeguard utility. Very simple and painless.
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Maestro Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-10-05 08:32 PM
Response to Reply #12
15. I have two SATA drives in a RAID 0 config
and it is very fast! Go with SATA. If you can, try to get a hold of some 10,000 RPM drives as well.
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RoyGBiv Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Mar-11-05 12:23 AM
Response to Reply #10
18. Totally agree ...

Another reason I recommend the ASUS mobo I mentioned in a previous message. It has SATA support.

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HamstersFromHell Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Mar-11-05 09:36 AM
Response to Original message
21. I'd change a few things... (personal experience/prefrences)
Motherboard:

Gigabyte GA-K8NS Ultra 939
This comes with built in 8 channel audio, SP/DIF audio out/in, 8 USB 2.0 ports, 4 IDE channels plus 4 more SATA (raid or not), and Firewire for direct digital camcorder input, as well as 2 network ports - 1 10/100 and 1 gigabit ethernet. The only complaints about this board come from the die-hard overclockers who complain about the limited ability to "overvoltage" CPU and RAM to run at some insane speed.

CPU:

http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproductdesc.asp?description=19-103-501&DEPA=0">AMD Athlon 64 3000+ 939

AMD gives you a lot more bang for the buck than Intel does. Period.

Going socket 939 over socket 754 gives you 2 advantages:
First is that the socket 939 is the 90nm techology (754 is "old" 130nm) and is roughly 10% faster than 754.
Second is that almost all the chipsets used on socket 939 use "dual channel" access, making it read/write to/from RAM double the speed of single channel. It also will give you 4 RAM sockets instead of the usual 3, but with the caveat that you need to fill them in pairs in order for the dual channel architecture to work.

RAM: get good ram with low latency. But if you're not overclocking, even the more "economy" RAM will work well. (Remember, there's only like 3 or 4 makers of the raw RAM chips themselves.)

Hard Drive:

Swap out the Maxtor for a Western Digital. Just personal preference based a few hundred systems I've built over the years for friends and clients. SATA if you can afford the upcharge. (For raw video, it'd probably be best for a small (40 gig) boot drive on IDE, and SATA striped RAID of a pair of 80 or 120 giggers for video).

Video: Unless you're going to be into serious gaming, skip the super high end cards. A GeForce 5700 based card with 128 meg. should do you fine.

Note that in what I recommend, you can delete the sound card as it's on the mobo already complete with digital in/out.


I just completed an upgrade to my personal system (heavy gaming, Photoshop, 3D rendering) using the above mentioned motherboard and CPU (replacing a Athlon XP1800 and Chaintech mobo. It went together smoothly, and right out of the box with no tweaking it's stable as a rock. I'm using my old 20 and 80 gig IDE drives and 350w power supply in my old case, more upgrades as money allows :)

Hope this helps!
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Beware the Beast Man Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Mar-16-05 12:14 PM
Response to Original message
24. Thanks, everybody, for all your input!
I think I'm just about ready to get started. I'm compiling the wishlist this weekend.

So, what are your fees? :D
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HamstersFromHell Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Mar-16-05 01:05 PM
Response to Reply #24
25. Just seeing our fellow DUers happy
is more than good enough.

Now if you *insist* on it.... :)



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jayfish Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Mar-16-05 07:23 PM
Response to Reply #25
26. Exactly!
I do expect some benchmarks to be posted as soon as it's running though. :smoke:

Jay
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RoyGBiv Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Mar-16-05 10:02 PM
Response to Reply #24
27. Go forth and share ...

Once you've been through the experience, conquered the obstacles, triumphed over the frustrations, then use the knowledge you've acquired to help someone else.

That's all I ever ask.

Well, cookies are nice. :-)

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ChaoticSilly Donating Member (367 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-17-05 09:08 PM
Response to Original message
28. I ordered a custom computer from Monarch a couple of weeks ago
- should be here early next week. Here's what I went with:

motherboard - MSI K8N Neo4 Platinum SLI
CPU - AMD Athlon 64 4000+ (2.4 GHz 1MB L2 cache)
memory - 2GB Corsair PC3200
hard drives - 2 Western Digital SATA's 200GB, 80GB (200GB for WinXP & data, 80GB for Linux)
CD/DVD - Sony DVD±RW
video - dual Geforce 6600 GT's
network & sound - built into motherboard
case - Antec Plusview, Antec 500W power supply
OS - WinXP (will install Gentoo Linux myself on 2nd HD)

I've used MSI motherboards in my last 2 computers and have been very satisfied with them - both have been very stable. And, in my opinion, the new Athlon 64's (or even the old Athlon XP's) are much, much better than P4's.

I can't wait to run a few POVRay benchmarks to see how it compares to the Athlon 1.6 GHz I have now. I've made a couple of pics that took 48 hours to render - hoping the new computer will do them in 1/3 to 1/2 the time. I also can't wait to see the dual vid cards in action.
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jayfish Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Mar-17-05 09:39 PM
Response to Original message
29. Bargain Flash.
This is the best deal I have seen in a long time.

http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproductdesc.asp?description=24-001-171&DEPA=1

The specs. are fantastic and the price is even better. I used to sell this monitor in the 15" flavor and they are really nice. Only complaint I have is its' pedestal. But that's easily overlooked. I might buy two of them tomorrow. ...if they're still in stock.

Jay
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Beware the Beast Man Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Mar-19-05 09:53 AM
Response to Reply #29
31. Nice! I had my eye Samsungs in terms of monitors.
That's a really good deal. Thanks!
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jayfish Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Mar-19-05 03:08 PM
Response to Reply #31
32. One Of The Things I Like About Them...
is that the AC/DC transformer is built into the monitor. No more bricks at the outlet or lying on the floor. It's small thing but when you work with them day in and day out it makes a big difference.

Jay
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SHRED Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Mar-18-05 07:31 AM
Response to Original message
30. I like...
Intel motherboards. None more reliable.

ATI Radeon 9800pro videocard.

Crucial memory.

Seagate SATA hard drive.

Newegg rocks!

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Sgent Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Mar-21-05 06:51 AM
Response to Reply #30
33. Take a look
at AnandTech.com and check out their mid-range/budget reviews. Anandtech is an excellent site for roll your own computer hackers, and goes into detail about every part, tradeoffs, and additional options. For pricing, don't forget www.pricewatch.com -- probably the best place for component pricing.
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