Any opinions on using oiled oak for part of my kitchen counter top?

I was thinking about using engineered stone on the island around the stove, and then oiled oak in the rest of the kitchen. Looks great, and very affordable. I thought a sink with an apron would help minimize the problems with water and the sink. Have I lost my mind, or is this a cool, affordable option?

.... oak in particular is prone to discoloring if it gets wet and stays wet.

Why not consider something else? Like maybe maple or birch? They still can disolor, but not as bad as oak might.

My real concern is the wood (any wood) right next to the sink. That's where the problem gets critical. Water *will* (not 'can' .... *will*) eventually get between the wood and the sink and start the irreversible color change.

Is there a way you could put a more appropriate material right around the sink? You've already suggested you're considering more than one counter material.

They have beech as well. It is lighter in color, and I don't like it as much as the oak, but I would consider it, too. http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?topcategoryId=15576&catalogId=10103&storeId=12&productId=60908&langId=-1&parentCats=15576*16270*16273

The look I am considering is a light grey glazed cabinet, fairly modern, the wood counter top and a stainless backsplash. I think it is a killer combo, and very affordable. But it won't be great if it doesn't wear ok.

I was thinking that a stainless sink with an integrated apron off to one side might help with the moisture problem. I must be honest, I am not much of a housekeeper, especially when I get cooking, so the water tends to go where it may. I don't take time to wipe up moisture spots.

Another option, the carpenter I interview mentioned he could wrap stainless around wood to create a countertop in the space alloted for about $800, or we could go for patented H2S stainless laminate. Both would be less expensive than having the steel fabricator in to work.

A third option, Ikea has a killer red laminate. For what it costs, I could change it in 5 years when I get sick of red.
http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?topcategoryId=15576&catalogId=10103&storeId=12&productId=25728&langId=-1&parentCats=15576*16270*16274


On edit: Maybe I could ask the carpenter to wrap the section of counter top adjacent to the sink with stainless. Problem is, that would create a seam between the wood and stainless section. Hmmm.... I dunno, I will think about it.

That could also have been words uttered by Sparkly (who I love dearly, despite her .... uh .... 'ways'). :)

That was a big part of why we went with all stainless in our kitchen. To be fair and honest, I wanted it. She wasn't so sure. We considered other options, like stone or solid surface, too. In the end, I wanted granite. She wanted stainless! Go figure. So we went with stainless. It had a lot to do with water issues. The laminate counter that had been there since 1982 had worn well ...... until Sparkly moved in in 1999. Then the laminate started to suffer water damage to the substrate. That's what started us on the whole kitchen remodel.

They were fine when I moved in. Maybe I am a stainless kind of person, too :) Too bad, I really love the look of the wood. Drat!

and they were scarred when I got them. Even with the scarring, they looked nice, but I still used a cutting board, trivets, and every other protective device I used with laminate or linoleum or varnished plywood or contact paper or any other surface I'd ever coped with. In other words, if you want to keep them nice, be prepared to protect them.

The scratches were minimized when I oiled the whole business frequently, and under my care they started to look pretty good. I would never justify the expense in my own kitchen, though, and will probably continue to stick with cheap and dirty and easy to swap out laminate until the bitter end.

Those counters will look nice, though.

I am not adverse to a little wear, besides, that can be sanded out if I should so desire. I just don't want huge black spots and eventual rot and warping. I have a butcher block island/cart right now and I am fine with the day to day maintenance of that. I am worried about the water damage from the sink.

to the sink, just a black line where the counter ended and the sink began, something that predated my tenancy.

I'd never repeat the experience, given the choice. The counters required frequent oiling, the same protection as laminate, and quick cleaning of spills.

As I said, cheap & easy laminate is fine with me. If I get sick of green once the SW drought ends (if it ever does), it'll be cheap for me to replace it with grey or taxicab yellow or whatever color I decide on.

.... you already bought into the notion of a mixed material scheme. If you use the same engineered stone as you're using on the island for the areas immediately adjacent to the sink and then use wood for the rest of the counter, you could have the best of all worlds. A scheme that makes some aesthetic sense and one that keeps the wettest areas safe. Here's a tip ... if you do this, have your counter/engineered stone guy set the stone ever so slightly sloped back toward the sink. 1/8" per foot would ensure no water goes from the 'drainboard' area out to the adjoining wood and the slope would hardly be noticeable.

The tricky part is that to accomplish this little feat, you'll have a seam in the counter that falls in the middle of the sink. As you know, they have approved seam sealer/fillers that work with the (Silestone, Zodiaq, whatever) stone. That will make a durable seam and allow you to accomplish the slope - essentially an extremely shallow 'Vee' with the low point below the sink.

Even for those who want to use it in just a certain area of the counter... that is a great source!