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Synth Oil...is it worth it?

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Steerpike Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Jan-02-09 06:13 AM
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Synth Oil...is it worth it?
As I approach 90,000 miles on my 2000 Ford Explorer I wonder. I've used synth (quaker state) oil since the very first oil change. Does anyone have any factual knowledge about it's properties and advantages? The guy at the oil change place said it would make my engine last a lot longer. But, I'm not sure I believe him, tho I have no reason to doubt.
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DainBramaged Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Jan-07-09 09:25 AM
Response to Original message
1. Been using synth in all of my vehicles since 1981
from race cars to my current piece of shit, never had an engine failure, never had a component failure, and I've had about 23 cars in that time. Easier on cold starts, better under heat, stays on metal and lasts longer between oil changes, PLUS we proved on a chassis dyno in the mid-eighties that full synth engine, trans and rear fluids was worth about 7 rear wheel horsepower because it is so slippery. PS, I've been using Quaker State since 2002, because it is always on sale as opposed to Mobile 1 and I haven't seen any difference in brands now.
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8 track mind Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jan-27-09 08:01 PM
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2. Hot Rod magazine
did a dyno test with it a few years back. They got 3 extra horsepower by using it. I've been running it for years myself in my cars and bikes. No problems whatsoever. The stuff seems to come out cleaner at oil change.
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Boczech Donating Member (5 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Feb-14-09 01:23 AM
Response to Reply #2
3. Another Synthetic User Here
Started in the early 80's with a 1970 Z28 Camaro. I have found that the engines do idle smoother and seem to be quieter. I joined several online forums ex: bobistheoilguy for the oil geeks which is pretty cool to check out. I will say this that conventional oils have changed the last 20-25 years and have gotten actually pretty good if you do a used oil analysis to compare.
One thing to factor in is cost and what kind of budget do you have and miles driven per year. Do you want to do extended oil drains or stay with 5-6k mile drains. Everybody has their favorites so pick one and see how it works for you then be the judge. If your car manual calls for a 5w20 then stay in that grade just don't run a HDEO 15w40. Personally I don't believe one has to pay two to three times the amount to get the same protection. Advertising does wonders on sales and gimmicks to lure the consumer in.
Schaeffers oil is a sleeper so if you can find a sales rep in your area to purchase a case that might be something to consider.
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krispos42 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Mar-28-09 09:05 AM
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4. I began using it when I began driving in 1994
My parents bought a 1987 Thunderbird in 1990 with 70,000 miles on it. My dad began using Mobile 1 in it. I got it in 1994 with 135,000 miles on it and began using Syntec. At 255,000 miles the head gasket blew and the car was retired. In the interim I replaced one idler pulley for the serpentine belt, one harmonic balancer, two water pumps, one alternator, one radiator, and the master brake cylinder. Everything in the engine was original and it burned no oil while still starting right up when you turned the key.


Next was a 1989 Olds Regency 98 that I got in 2005 with 140,000 miles on it. Sold it last fall with 192,000 on it, it burned no oil and got 24 mpg, had to do nothing to the engine. Never failed to start or run well.


None of my parent's cars have any trouble with the engine either. No bad bearings, no worn piston rings, etc. 1985 Camaro, 1989 Maxima, Isuzu Amigo of undertermined vintage, 2003 Pathfinder, 2000 Outback, 1996 custom Econoline. The Amigo kept breaking timing belts and ruining the valves, and the Econoline spontaniously combusted one night, but that didn't have anything to do with engine oil. :-)


Go for it. It's a hell of a lot cheaper than a rebuild.
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