any quick, easy or cheap ideas? (yeah right) 89 ford PU auto, V8 4x4

(I know - another broke down old truck - but at least it is my son's and not mine)

crapping out at lower speeds/idle - fuel filter replaced and pump tested for pressure - seems to be OK

mech says about $500 to dig in and replace 3 or 4 sensors and no guarantee it will solve problem

will be in and out so pardon if I don't reply quickly

thanks in advance

1.
The vacuum valve can go bad and send vacuum to the EGR valve opening it slightly at idle. Unplug the vacuum hose and see if it runs smoother.

2.
EGR valve can become fouled with carbon and not close completely. Result is a lean condition at idle. Check by removing EGR valve and open with vacuum pump (or long vacuum hose and healthy lungs) and check for carbon on the seat or plug. Clean with carb cleaner and toothbrush. Clean around intake mating surface. Worth a try.


Have the truck checked for codes. O'Reilly's and/or AutoZone should do it for free.

http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/showthread.php?t=5370

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/855041-need-to-fix-my-egr-code-33-a.html

son's truck, I think he said something about having autozone check it

He is asleep now and I can't remember if he told me that is what somebody else told him to do or if he actually had it in to check. There isn't one in our "main" town and I'm not sure when he last took it to the big city. It has been sitting at our usual guy's place for a week - I wonder why he didn't read or maybe he doesn't have a computer.

I'll have to ask in the morning now. Truck was running MUCH worse after the little bit of fiddling and new filter so he left it down there for now until he decides what to do. I will check to see about any code readings and ask mech if he tried egr stuff. I'm kind of in the middle here and not sure who has done what, told him I would check to see what I could find out on line. Thanks again.

doesn't have the connections or ability - is that right?

I have one at hone, I used to use it with my 84 Crown Vic and my 1990 Colony Parkosaurus. Not the same but similar to this:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EQU1/3145.oap?ck=Search_code+scanner_N0664_-1_2844&keyword=code+scanner&pt=N0664&ppt=C0103

Same link as above: http://tinyurl.com/6wqzrxj

Plugs into a connector under the hood and gives the code as a series of beeps.

Anyways, I would do the check for vacuum to the EGR valve at idle (bad!) and if not then remove, clean and reinstall EGR valve and see what that does. Cheap and easy tests.

http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=view_all&address=105x9819798















:hide:

:spank:

mech said that was the first thing he checked

he is going to start looking "deeper" but truck is gone until after T-day holidays. dammit

meanwhile we started back working on another old 80's era ford truck, this is an 85 4x4 with a big straight 6
it has electrical and starting "issues" too. sigh

got another battery for it so we will see how long that lasts

Make sure your ground cables are good and are connected to the block and frame. Also swap in a known good solenoid. Does it start easy with a little squirt of starting fluid?

usually. (it has no air cleaner/filter on it)

this is an abandoned vehicle we found in the desert. Ran pretty good for a year or so - good enough I even had it registered and insured! but it started having problems then sat for a couple years until last winter when we tried to get it going again. supposedly it had some carb work done (that I paid for) but it has needed lots of fiddling every time we try to do anything with it.

the problem is, it quits on me and then it sits for a while - just about long enough to forget what went wrong, then try again...

...would be beneficial. A piece of paper and a pencil in each glovebox to keep track of when they act naughty, and when they get service.

Carbs can dry out when a vehicle is left sitting and then the accellerator pump diaphram can become dry and shrink. Depends on the style, but the effects are similar. Also evaporating gas leaves varnish in the small passages. Same with Motorcycles and such. Also, too, EGR you betcha.

It might help to partially dissasemble the carb abd blow carb cleaner through the passages. Soak the accell diaphram in some gas before reassembly or search for a cheap rebuild kit on Ebay for parts and replace it. AAAAAAAHHHH!, right? I know but you gotta try to localize your economy. Supporting your local mechanic is a good thing but come on.

I understand that on dual tank trucks the valve can go wonky. You switch tanks but the valve does not switch. Something to check.

Wish I could be more specific but I would have to be there tossing my gut onto the fender and removing my eyebrows with flameballs.

General stuff:
Get some Seafoam fuel additive and use it in the vehicles you don't use often to help clean the carbs when they are running. Get some Sta-Bil to preserve the gas in the same vehicles.