Do you advise deactivating the antilock braking system?

I got an ABS error lamp a few days before when I had another braking problem (both rear cylinders worn out and seized). The car is a 2000 Ford Windstar with 100,000 miles.

I am going to pay for the wheel/brake repair and have the ABS diagnostic test done. When I heard that the "Module" would cost $800, I was thinking of telling the dealer to just "pull the fuse" or whatever it takes to totally disable the ABS system. I almost never use ABS. I hear it kick on a few times per year. If I had a choice in a new car, I would probably pass on the feature. The car seems to be getting to the end of its useful life. If it blows a head gasket, I will scrap it and get another car. However, I might drive it for another four years if it keeps running. That's how long I drove my last car.

So, is "pulling the fuse" to disable ABS a good idea or a bad idea? I am sure the dealer will pressure me to do the repair, but it is not his decision.

ABS works by locking the breaks first and then pumping them automatically. If you have a switch with which to turn it off, that would probably disable it safely, but I'm not sure that just cutting the circuit would necessarily keep whatever it is that locks the breaks in the first place from functioning. You can imagine how dangerous a situation might arise. But hey, maybe I'm wrong. hopefully someone who has owned and dealt with ABS braking will show up.

ABS works by looking at the speed sensors located in each wheel assembly. The sensor is a magnet and works via magnetic induction that generates a low voltage pulse when the teeth of a notched ring pass by it. It looks like a gear with several teeth and the sensor detects the teeth as the wheel turns. If the computer detects different pulse rates being generated it will relieve the pressure in the opposite brake line. Traction control works the same by adding braking to the wheels that are turning faster than the others. The problem could be something as easy as one of the sensors going bad or the module itself. Checking each sensor can be done with a scan tool or a multimeter to verify that the sine wave pulses are being generated by the sensor. Sensors are not terribly expensive with dealer cost somewhere in the $150.00 range. You can get them at a lower cost through Autozone, NAPA, etc.

Pulling the fuse will only disable the anti locking feature of the brake system. It does not effect the pressure in the brake lines when the brake pedal is depressed. You will still have the brakes, only they won't be able to be modulated once the fuse is pulled. Where you will notice the difference is in wet weather conditions or snow. It is rather doubtful you will notice it in dry conditions.

My wife's 2000 Crapstar is having the same issue. If you are going to continue to drive that van without fixing the problem, definitely pull the fuse. They have a tendency to falsely activate the ABS system if any of the speed sensors or control module are faulty. When this happens (especially on dry pavement) it is terrifyingly unfun. The ABS will activate, the pedal will go rock hard and you will be hard pressed to stop the van. This happens at 5mph and under. Another BS part about this is that you cannot replace the module yourself because the settings from the old unit need to be flashed to the new unit.

...oh, and these are the biggest POS's I have ever had the displeasure of dealing with.

Good Luck,

Jay


ON EDIT: As jimmil said above, unless the normal red brake warning light activated, the braking system will function just fine with the ABS system deactivated.

My Haynes manual does not have that circuit (!). I tried to research this on the www.edmunds.com forums. I found anxious people complaining about ABS, but nobody who described the problem with any confidence.

The dealer said that the ABS checked out ok, but he told me that I should bring it back if I have any problems. I have a hunch that he is watching for one of the odd problems like you described.

Ironic is that Ford is not touting high quality records for recent models. My 1981 Ford had scant problems compared to the Windstar. An air conditioner compressor and a cranky automatic choke, that was it. And those were when the car was >90,000 miles (and to be expected).

Found this:

Your ABS Power Relay is 101 Relay( Pump Motor) under the hood. Or 102 Relay (Hydraulics Micro) Both are 40 amp J case fuses open the fuse box and look top left they are green.

http://www.blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=307

I disconnected Fuse 102, started the engine, ABS amber light stayed on. Drove it around the block, no big deal. There is no unpaved area to test for a skid. Put the relay back in and I am going to watch for the "momentary ABS lamp" again and pull the fuse (or take the car in for another draining of my savings).