As a Californian and who knows lots of surfers, this is really the best surfing right now.

Just hope they clear out soon and get somewhere safe....

Ride it or die trying.*

*From the book of Dude-eronomy 3:11

FAKE NEWS!

...every storm.

- far enough away not to hit land but close enough to cause huge waves - I lived beachside and could watch from my kitchen windows - we were under flood warnings, wind gusts, and not much else at the time. This was Atlantic side Florida.

Still, there were multiple injuries taking place that I witnessed. Broken bones and a very bloody face where the board hit its owner square in the mouth. My view was that close and that clear. These idiots were laughing. Even after help arrived.

I kept thinking, "Am I missing something?".

I didn't ponder long. I had to call wildlife about an alligator creeping up the street.

When it flooded, the gators would make their way beachside.

I swore I'd never live around gators or flood areas again. Jokes on me, I'm in Louisiana and we flood all the damn time.

Still don't get the surfing thing during a storm.

I guess they got some thrill from it. I got a case of nerves watching.

California DUers who know surfers always remind us that surfers live for waves like these.

that have the potential to injure or kill them.

I don't cliff dive anymore.

You do get it.

So, I get engaging in activities that carry the potential for danger. Many activities do. I don't get risking the increased level of danger.

There's a line I won't cross. There's a point, for me, where there's no thrill because it's simply too dangerous.

and they very rarely get seriously hurt or killed.

A proud member of Southern Unit Surf Club.
Take it from me, surfers are crazy.

There are so many different types of madness .

I’ve lived on the east coast of FL my whole life. Hurricane surf is the best. Rarely anyone injured during it.