The DU Lounge
Related: Culture Forums, Support ForumsCan anyone here recommend a plumbing forum on the interwebz?
I have little experience working on plumbing, but I do know my way around automobiles. I know how to use tools.
The project at hand involves an old-school toilet. The house was built in 1905. The toilet is an American Standard. I have a part number cast inside the lid, but it doesn't match much. There's a date, May 6, 1962, inside the lid. The design of the toilet is such that the tank is hung on the wall. It is not supported by a rear extension from the bowl. An ell connects an outlet on the bottom of the tank to an inlet on the rear of the bowl. There's a rubber gasket on the rear of the bowl. It's beginning to leak. I took pictures, but I can't attach them here.
I'll look online for pictures.
This is close to what the back of my bowl looks like. The chrome ell connecting my tank and my bowl is 2 inches in diameter.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/standard-pacific-toilet-bowl-from-1931.57244/
Mine is also like the one on that part, in that it goes through a huge amount of water and yet flushes slowly anyway.
Thanks.
SWBTATTReg
(22,133 posts)quite a bit too, despite the fact that I'm pretty handy in plumbing...good luck!
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)The replacement of the worn part should be straightforward, once I get an appropriate wrench to remove the slip nut. It's the parts that I suspect will prove a challenge to find. Local hardware stores aren't going to have it. All the valves inside the bowl are easy to get from Fluidmaster -- inlet, flush -- no problem.
SWBTATTReg
(22,133 posts)That is, if you have any around anymore. I had one that closed unfortunately, but I still have two others to go to, in case I need an old part (an 'new' part in reality to replace onto an older fixture of course is what I meant). Give it a shot and good luck!
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)I need to know what I'm looking for. I'll order from Amazon as a last resort.
Kali
(55,014 posts)unfortunately mine is from the 40s and they don't fit. my plan is to build up a seal with silicon and paint over it.
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)to remove the Shoe Goo -- technically, it's for patching gutters. It's Shoe Goo with aluminum particles to match the color of aluminum.
I scraped that off. I took some small polyester-like twine, something you'd see to wrap packages. I smeared that with that black tarry automotive gasket cement. I'll find a picture....
This stuff: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-aviation-form-a-gasket-no.-3-sealant-4-oz.-80019/7740018-p
Permatex Form-a-Gasket. I soaked that into the twine and pulled it into the gap that is forming in the original rubber gasket. I think that might stop the leak. Still, I'd rather have a new gasket.
There's a leak only when the toilet is flushed and the ell is filled with water. No water in the ell? No leak.
LuckyCharms
(17,444 posts)and do a Google reverse image search on them.
Google will find pictures that are similar.
If you find a similar toilet, just click on the link and start going down the rabbit holes. Follow the links as deep as you can, and don't just click on images when doing so...click on "all" and you may eventually end up at something that will help you out.
You'll probably see a few plumbing forums on the way.
I've done this before for DIY dilemmas, and it has helped me out.
PS....I just looked at your post again, and it looks like you've done some pic research. I'll leave this response here anyway...it might be of use to someone.
Good luck.
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)That was pretty much the highlight of my Thanksgiving. That little Kindle gets in places I can't fit, so I got a nice angle on the connection.
Anyone at a hardware store I showed the pictures to would see right away what I need.
randr
(12,412 posts)I would recommend a recycled toilet from Habitat or such. I recently installed a "new" toilet to replace poorly functional one. Paid $60. Had to buy new wax ring and installed in 15 mins.
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)rampartc
(5,410 posts)they are held down with 2 bolts on the drain pipe and a wax seal or 2.
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)I almost never use it.
CentralMass
(15,265 posts)mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)My toilet is not among those illustrated.
Thanks anyway.
CentralMass
(15,265 posts)American Standard 2882108.020 Glenwall VorMax Wall-Hung ...
... 1972, 1971, 1970, 1969, 1968, 1967, 1966, 1965, 1964, 1963, 1962, 1961, 1960, 1959 .... The Glenwall VorMax Wall-Hung Elong
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)In mine, the tank is supported by anchors embedded in the wall. The bowl is supported by the floor.
The toilet entirely hung on the wall is a great choice for hospitals, as you can clean the bathroom floor easily. You don't have to go around the toilet.
A new toilet could easily replace what I have now, but that's not what I want to do.
Thanks anyway.
CentralMass
(15,265 posts)pressure assist toilet that I bought at Home Depot. Instead of using a column of water it has a small tank (inside the ceramic tank) with a diaphragm in the middle. The water line feeds the tank and pushes on the diaphragm creating compressed air. They flush really well. Any how, the tank started to leak at the seam and after trying a fix with two-part epoxy, i emailed American Standard about the issue and and less then week later they shipped a new tank to me for no charge.
Donkees
(31,418 posts)mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)The gasket at the back of the bowl is beginning to pull away from the bowl.
I'll follow your recommendation tomorrow.
Thanks.
Donkees
(31,418 posts)The flush valve is installed with a gasket that is tightened with a nut below the tank. The horn that goes in the bowl is a gasket that expands to make it watertight by tightening down the nut of the horn. The bowl is seated on the wax ring and flange the same way a modern toilet is. There is an extra set of holes for the floor bolts, which is pretty common on older bowls. The extra set of bolts is unnecessary and I have found it easier to just have the bolts unattached to the floor and in place just to keep the caps in place.
The 2 eel tube is what connects the flush valve or the tank to the horn on the bowl. That connection utilizes a nut and rubber ring gasket to seal both of those connections.t13
toilet lastAnd voila! There is no real reason to be intimidated by a vintage toilet. The two biggest obstacles, I think, are not understanding how a flush toilet works and not knowing where to find the replacement parts.
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)Donkees
(31,418 posts)Seems to be a variety available (home depot, lowes, etc) from different manufacturers
Donkees
(31,418 posts)mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)loosen or tighten.
That's the arrangement that I've got in my toilet, I'm sure. I haven't removed it, but I don't see how it could be something else.
The gasket in post #26 looks like the one that goes between the tank bottom and the rear of the bowl in a toilet that is entirely supported by the floor.
We can't get anything out of the ordinary around here. The area is turning into a high-income region, and getting parts for projects that involve working with your hands is getting tough.
Thanks.
Donkees
(31,418 posts)Brass and Rubber, Inlet Spud, Brass, For Use With Toilets
Item # 4THJ7 Mfr. Model # 047007-0070A Catalog Page # 2751 UNSPSC # 47131705
https://www.grainger.com/product/4THJ7
-------------
I'm just guessing
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)I think my neighborhood hardware store will be open until 6 p.m., so I can stop there and see if he has that. I'll expand the circle to hardware stores that are farther and farther away. Grainger's pretty far out for me.
Thanks.
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)have your thumb and little finger on ... Is that called a slip nut? Is the proper tool to loosen or tighten it a slip nut wrench? That's not a spud nut, is it? Doesn't a spud nut have little indentations in the outer hex-shaped region? Post a picture, say, from a Grainger catalog or from Amazon, if you can, so I'll know what to look for.
Thanks.
Donkees
(31,418 posts)2? Locknut for Spuds and Flush Valves
https://deabath.com/product/2-locknut-for-spuds-and-flush-valves/
braddy
(3,585 posts)interesting old toilet in operation.
Hassin Bin Sober
(26,330 posts)Also plbg.com is great for questions like this. There are some real old timers who probably know that toilet like the back of their hand. They are a little crusty and rough around the edges but really helpful.
LunaSea
(2,894 posts)Is more dependent on the pipe out than the pipe in.
Is it on a sewer line or septic tank?
If the pipe out is at too shallow an angle it won't flush any faster.
Or if the pipe is constricted at some point between the toilet and tank/sewer.
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)AncientGeezer
(2,146 posts)I've gotten them at my local Ace..Security Supply...etc..
Always had 2-3 of them in the shop..they aren't high priced.
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)I'm at the library. When I turned my Kindle Fire on, I connected the USB cable to the computer. A popup screen came out to warn me that I was not getting more than a low charge. The Fire locked up. I couldn't get rid of the screen. Since I was at a terminal, I Googled "kindle fire is locked up." The solution came up right away, and I was able to perform a soft reset. I did not want a hard reset.
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)The person on the line said to type in "PF100." This came up:
PROFLO® PF100 Series 2 X 2 in. Closet Spud
The image is interactive, and I can't link to it. They come in a variety of sizes. I'll bet mine is the 2 X 2 in.
Donkees
(31,418 posts)mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)(800) 442-1902. 20-minute wait, but it's noon here. The woman who answered said that American Standard won't have parts for a toilet that old. She suggested I call Guillen's.
Hard To Find Plumbing Parts Online | Genuine Replacement Parts for Faucets and Showers
Mmmm, that sure sounds like what I'm looking for.
More later....
Donkees
(31,418 posts)All these ''spuds'' look just like the one in post#20, being installed in the same type toilet that you own
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)I looked closely at a photograph I had taken of it. It's an American Standard Modernus.
Here's a page with lots of parts: Hard-to-Find Miscellaneous Toilet Parts
Also, there's something else to consider:
....
Please Note: The closet spud side (washer side) is the part that will fit into the hole in the porcelain fixture. An internal spud wrench is used to hold the spud in place, while the nut on the outside is tightened to allow the washer to tighten evenly around the inside of the hole in the porcelain. The threaded side is for the connection from a flushometer to the toilet fixture or from the tank piping into the bowl (wall hung toilets), depending on how the spud is being used.
So I'll have to get one of those too. I'll probably need one to remove the old spud.
Donkees
(31,418 posts)against the tabs to keep the spud from spinning while he uses a crescent wrench to tighten the nut. The youtube toilet spud videos have various spud wrenches in use, maybe something similar to what you already own.
See the metal bar at around 3:40 mark...
mahatmakanejeeves
(57,489 posts)come out easily. I do not want to crack the porcelain.
Thanks.
discntnt_irny_srcsm
(18,479 posts)This spud's for you: