Once a Lace Capital, Now Riven by French Politics

Globalization silenced the historic looms of Calais; blue-collar voters there represent the forces powering the far right.

CALAIS, France — The clang of giant weaving looms ricocheted across a cavernous factory one recent afternoon at Desseilles Laces, one of the oldest lace makers in France. A handful of workers flitted among the machines, guiding gossamer threads into a floral confection destined for luxury lingerie and couture dresses.

The halls here, and at hundreds of lace factories around Calais, were once thick with employees. But as competition from countries with cheaper labor costs buffeted France, waves of layoffs swept through this working-class town on the edge of the English Channel.

Today, fewer than 300 employees remain at just three factories — Desseilles, Noyon Dentelle and Codentel — a fraction of the 30,000 whose livelihood depended on lace less than two generations ago. Around Calais, the hulking brick skeletons of abandoned lace factories cast shadows over modest, low-slung houses. And Desseilles was recently taken over by a Chinese investor, drawing laments that a crown jewel of the industry had fallen into foreign hands.

It has been a painful retreat for an industry whose delicate creations symbolized “Made in France” know-how, an economic pattern repeated across the country and one of the most divisive issues in the presidential election.

From steel mills to auto factories, the loss of hundreds of thousands of jobs to globalization has created social distress — and competing visions from the candidates about how to fix it. France’s rigid labor laws, despite recent reforms, add a layer of complexity by making it difficult for companies to adjust to a shifting economy.

In ravaged industrial areas like Calais, anger about the impact of globalization is fierce, as unemployment tops 20 percent and the remaining factory floors rely more heavily on machinery than manpower.

The far-right firebrand Marine Le Pen won big in last Sunday’s presidential runoff in such locales. Her pledges to revive industry in France, impose “intelligent” protectionism and roll back harmful European policies have found a ripe audience. . .

Mr. Macron, a former Rothschild banker, says that business-friendly policies and sticking with the European Union are the way to shield France from globalization’s threat.

“Globalization can be a great opportunity,” he said on the campaign trail. On Wednesday, he repeated his message at a Whirlpool factory destined for closure in his hometown, Amiens, after a visit by Ms. Le Pen. But in a stagnant economy with high unemployment, he was jeered by some workers, who blamed cheap competition for killing jobs. . .

Mr. Durlet, the Noyon executive, does not think either of the presidential contenders is capable of reversing France’s industrial decline. Not Mr. Macron, with his pledges of keeping France open to globalization. Not Ms. Le Pen, with her vision of hard protectionism.

“She talks about closing borders, but what will that serve?” Mr. Durlet asked. “Nothing. ”

But for some on the factory floor, Ms. Le Pen’s promises have struck a chord.

“People are so disappointed that they will go vote for Marine Le Pen out of frustration,” said Renato Fragoli, a 23-year Desseilles veteran who led an employee group called the Forgotten, which backed Yongsheng’s bid to keep the factory from closing.

“It’s truly sad,” said Mr. Fragoli, recalling the scores of longtime workers who left the factory amid waves of layoffs. “But I can understand them. The jobs have disappeared.”'

https://www.nytimes.com/2017/04/29/business/france-election-globalization-lepen-macron-lace.html?

A warning for all of us.