Or an assortment of cheeses, sliced sausages, toasted garlic rounds, fruit.

Or hummus, flat bread triangles, yogurt, olives, baklava.

Etc.

one of crappy food. Not the time of day or what it's called, even though the author is couching it in those terms.

Good food, well prepared, enjoyed in good company. That's the essence of a meal, not when it's eaten or precisely what the courses consist of.

We often dine at a favorite cafe in DC, usually somewhat 'off' hours, but who cares???

http://www.breadandchocolate.net/menu.html

Odd time of day to eat unless you are a late sleeper. Not a big breakfast eater, so all the brunch food is lost on me, plus I hate eggs.