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elleng

(131,077 posts)
Wed Apr 30, 2014, 01:16 PM Apr 2014

Bagels, Lox and Me

On Sunday, I put on my running clothes, went out to the elevator, and pushed the button. In the time it took for my finger to travel from the wall back to my side, I’d decided that it was not a day for a run but for a trip to the market. I slipped a coat over everything and went to the store, where I bought bagels, lox and cream cheese, along with some badly needed staples. I then came home and ate. (While, of course, reading The Sunday Times. Sigh. Sometimes it’s tough to be a cliché.)

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/30/opinion/bittman-bagels-lox-and-me.html?hp&rref=opinion&_r=0

14 replies = new reply since forum marked as read
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Bagels, Lox and Me (Original Post) elleng Apr 2014 OP
When I lived in NYC for 6 years, this was my weekly routine. cbayer Apr 2014 #1
You're welcome, cbayer. elleng Apr 2014 #2
The article is really beautifully written and I love cbayer Apr 2014 #3
Brought me back too, elleng Apr 2014 #4
There is nothing to compare to a freshly baked bagel, imo. cbayer Apr 2014 #5
For breakfast, give me a toasted bagel, cream cheese, lox and a thin slice of onion Fortinbras Armstrong Apr 2014 #6
Boiled and baked??? elleng Apr 2014 #7
Yes. Fortinbras Armstrong May 2014 #11
I have never attempted to make bagels. cbayer Apr 2014 #8
I took my bagel recipe from Peter Reinhart's Fortinbras Armstrong May 2014 #12
Wow. Kudos to you. cbayer May 2014 #13
when we go to Miami to visit friends littlewolf Apr 2014 #9
Lots of Einsteins around here too, elleng Apr 2014 #10
one of my absolute favorites fizzgig May 2014 #14

cbayer

(146,218 posts)
1. When I lived in NYC for 6 years, this was my weekly routine.
Wed Apr 30, 2014, 02:14 PM
Apr 2014

Fresh bagel from H & R, cream cheese, lox, thin slices of cuke and a sprinkling of red onion.

I already had the paper, generally getting it on my way home on a Saturday night, and I'd always start with the crossword puzzle.

I can remember it like it was yesterday and it is a very, very fond memory.

Thanks so much for reminding me.

elleng

(131,077 posts)
2. You're welcome, cbayer.
Wed Apr 30, 2014, 02:32 PM
Apr 2014

My brother sent me the article, and suggested adding red onion and slice of swiss to my Lightly toasted, with Lox, FRESH GOOD tomato sliced, and cream cheese (tho Dad said that's NOT cheese!!!)

cbayer

(146,218 posts)
3. The article is really beautifully written and I love
Wed Apr 30, 2014, 02:35 PM
Apr 2014

how he talks about comfort foods and what we mean.

In Mexico, they call cream cheese "Philadelphia" - I kid you not. As in "Quiere eso con Philadelphia?".

And they put it on a lot of things.

Whether it is cheese or not, I still love it unashamedly.

elleng

(131,077 posts)
4. Brought me back too,
Wed Apr 30, 2014, 02:40 PM
Apr 2014

and funny that Dad, who grew up, in NYC, above Grandpa's Deli, was very particular about foods, hated pickles (because he'd hated having to stick his hand/arm into the pickle barrel!) and wanted/needed FRESH bread every day, so was happiest in neighborhoods (on L.I., NY, and FL) where it was available!

I think I heard the Philadelphia thing on Bizarre Foods recently.

cbayer

(146,218 posts)
5. There is nothing to compare to a freshly baked bagel, imo.
Wed Apr 30, 2014, 02:51 PM
Apr 2014

That combination of chewy and crunchy just can't be matched.

I also do not like pickles, but I'm not sure why. They just seem to overpower everything.

One of the things I love down here is the freshness of many of the products.

Even when you go into the big grocery store, they have enormous bakery sections. You grab a tray and a pair of tongs and just wander around picking out what you want. Then you take them up to the counter and they put them in paper bags, price them and take your tray.

Sliced bread that was baked last week? No thanks.

Fortinbras Armstrong

(4,473 posts)
6. For breakfast, give me a toasted bagel, cream cheese, lox and a thin slice of onion
Wed Apr 30, 2014, 03:36 PM
Apr 2014

If you want to throw a few capers on, I won't object.

I have taken to making my own bagels. Anyone want a recipe?

Fortinbras Armstrong

(4,473 posts)
12. I took my bagel recipe from Peter Reinhart's
Thu May 1, 2014, 10:42 AM
May 2014
Artisan Breads Every Day.

I hope that no one will be annoyed if I tell you things you already know. I used to be a college teacher, and pedantry has become engrained in my psyche.

Notes:

* The one thing you should have for this recipe that you probably don't is diastatic malt powder. I get mine from a home-brewer's shop in the next town. King Arthur also sells it on-line. It really does help the flavor. If you don't have it or can't get it, then just leave it out. Malt syrup, which you can get fairly easily, is simply not the same thing.

* A digital scale is essential when baking, since a given weight of flour may vary considerably in its volume. I also weigh the water, since I already have the flour on the scale. Personally, I use grams because it easier to deal with than fractions of an ounce, especially if you are adjusting the amounts. For small amounts, such as a teaspoon or tablespoon, I use measuring spoons, again for convenience.

* As was noted in the thread on biga, a long slow rise will vastly enhance the flavor.

* Instant yeast is easier to use, since you can just mix it into the flour without having to proof it in water. I buy my yeast in jars and store it in the fridge.

* Filtered or spring water does taste better, but tap water works

Ingredients for 6 to 8 bagels

454 gm (1 pound, approximately 3½ cups) unbleached bread flour
1 teaspoon (7 gm, ¼ oz) diastatic malt powder
1 teaspoon (3 gm, 0.1 oz) instant yeast
1½ teaspoon (10 gm, ⅜ oz) table salt or 2½ teaspoons (15 gm, ½ oz) kosher salt
255 gm (9 oz, slightly over 1 cup) lukewarm (95°F or 25°C) water

Whisk the malt powder, yeast and salt into the flour in a mixing bowl. Pour in the water. If you are using a stand mixer, use the dough hook and mix on low (#2 on a Kitchen-Aid) for 3 minutes. If you are mixing by hand, use a large, sturdy wooden spoon and stir vigorously for 3 minutes, or until well blended. The dough should form a stiff, rather coarse ball, and the flour should be fully hydrated; if it isn't, stir in a bit more water. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes to absorb the water.

Resume mixing with the dough hook on the lowest speed for another 3 minutes or transfer to a lightly floured work surface and knead by hand for about 3 minutes to smooth out the dough and develop the gluten. The dough should be stiff yet supple, with a satiny, barely tacky feel. If it seems too soft or too tacky, knead in a bit more flour.

Put into a lightly oiled bowl, cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap (I use a two quart Anchor Hocking bowl with a red plastic lid that I bought for about $6) and let it rise for an hour.

Prepare a sheet pan by covering it with a silicone mat or parchment paper, then misting it with spray oil or lightly coating it with vegetable oil. Split the dough into six to eight equal pieces, each weighing about 4 oz (113 gm) (you can make them a bit smaller). Form each piece into a ball by rolling it on a clean, dry surface with a cupped hand. Then flatten each ball out into a disk.

Poke a hole in center of the disk to form a doughnut shape. Holding the dough with both thumbs in the hole, rotate the dough in your hands, gradually stretching it to create a hole about 2 inches in diameter. (Another way is to roll the ball into a rope about 8 inches long, then moisten the two ends, and press the two ends to form the doughnut shape. I tried this, and half of my bagels came apart where I had squeezed the ends together.)

Place each shaped bagel on the sheet pan, spray them lightly with oil or brush a light coat of vegetable oil on them. Cover the sheet pan with plastic wrap and put the bagels into the fridge overnight or for up to two days.

Remove the bagels from the refrigerator an hour or so before baking and preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C). If you are going to adulterate your bagels with poppy seeds, onion flakes or other such nastinesses, prepare those garnishes now.

Fill a wide pot at least five inches deep with four inches of water (probably about 2-3 quarts). Bring this to a boil, and then lower the heat until it simmers. Stir in 1 tablespoon (14 gm, ½ oz) baking soda, 1 teaspoon table salt and 1½ tablespoons sugar. The only one of these that is crucial is the soda: Too much and you will be able to taste it.

Gently lower each bagel into the pot, adding as many as will comfortably fit without crowding. They should each float to the surface within a few seconds -- If the first one does not float, let the remaining bagels rest for half an hour, then try again. After a minute, turn the bagels over with a slotted spoon, and let them poach for 30-60 seconds. Remove from the pot with the slotted spoon, and place them rounded side up back on the pan. If you want to sprinkle a garnish on, now is the time to do it.

When all the bagels are on the pan, place the pan in the oven, then lower the heat to 450°F (230°C). Bake for 16-18 minutes, until the bagels are golden brown. Cool on a wire rack for at least half an hour before slicing or eating.

cbayer

(146,218 posts)
13. Wow. Kudos to you.
Thu May 1, 2014, 10:53 AM
May 2014

I will do this, someday, somewhere.

But not in my itty, bitty galley.

Saved. Thanks for doing this.

littlewolf

(3,813 posts)
9. when we go to Miami to visit friends
Wed Apr 30, 2014, 05:25 PM
Apr 2014

we go to Einstein's and get fresh Bagels. OMG they are sooooo good.

elleng

(131,077 posts)
10. Lots of Einsteins around here too,
Wed Apr 30, 2014, 05:28 PM
Apr 2014

MD suburbs of DC. Now that you mentioned it, may get some on my way to southern MD soon!

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