Elevate Your Chocolate-Chip Cookies.
'It takes me forever to get anywhere in Paris. Its not the traffic, or the strikes which are almost as reliable as the church bells tolling the hours or the weather, or the bumpy cobblestone streets. Its the pastry shops: There are so many of them, and I cant keep myself from lingering in front of their windows. Ive been stopped hundreds of times by the sight of cakes and tarts, small pastries of all shapes, cannelés browned to a burned-sugar patina and colorful macarons, of course. Im an easy mark when it comes to sweets, which is why its odd that in my decades-long wanderings Ive stopped for cookies only once. And that time, they werent even in a patisserie.
The cookies that called to me were so distinctive that even though they were on a back counter, I spotted them through an open door. They were made by Moko Hirayama, and they were in Mokonuts, the small, spare, breakfast-and-lunch-only restaurant that she runs with her husband, Omar Koreitem, in the 11th Arrondissement. Koreitem, whose first job out of culinary school was at the Michelin-starred restaurant Daniel in New York, and whose cooking is influenced by the places he has lived and worked Lebanon, France, the United States and Britain is in charge of all things savory, turning out elegant dishes in a kitchen the size of a van. And Hirayama (who grew up in Tokyo and San Francisco; went to college in New York, where the couple met; and kept a poster of a Pierre Hermé macaron on the wall of her office when she was a lawyer) does all the baking of breads, chubby loaf cakes, flaky fruit crostatas and those cookies.
The cookies are thick and chunky, even pucklike; craggy and rough around the edges; neither dainty nor unreasonably large. Some are smudged with chocolate; some have sesame seeds; all bear the marks of the bakers hands. It was the ones with chocolate that interested me most. As an American baker, I knew that the inspiration for them must have been the classic chocolate-chip cookie, yet they were nothing like the usual. From their looks, I guessed theyd be good; I couldnt have guessed that theyd turn into a meditation on the genre.'>>>
https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/03/magazine/chocolate-chip-cookie-cranberry-paris.html?
Mokonuts Rye-Cranberry Chocolate-Chunk Cookies
https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1019534-mokonuts-rye-cranberry-chocolate-chunk-cookies
Oh well, have to work on SOMETHING for breakfast, and think about visiting MY patisserie sometime next week!