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elleng

(131,121 posts)
Tue Sep 4, 2018, 09:18 AM Sep 2018

Elevate Your Chocolate-Chip Cookies.

'It takes me forever to get anywhere in Paris. It’s not the traffic, or the strikes — which are almost as reliable as the church bells tolling the hours — or the weather, or the bumpy cobblestone streets. It’s the pastry shops: There are so many of them, and I can’t keep myself from lingering in front of their windows. I’ve been stopped hundreds of times by the sight of cakes and tarts, small pastries of all shapes, cannelés browned to a burned-sugar patina and colorful macarons, of course. I’m an easy mark when it comes to sweets, which is why it’s odd that in my decades-long wanderings I’ve stopped for cookies only once. And that time, they weren’t even in a patisserie.

The cookies that called to me were so distinctive that even though they were on a back counter, I spotted them through an open door. They were made by Moko Hirayama, and they were in Mokonuts, the small, spare, breakfast-and-lunch-only restaurant that she runs with her husband, Omar Koreitem, in the 11th Arrondissement. Koreitem, whose first job out of culinary school was at the Michelin-starred restaurant Daniel in New York, and whose cooking is influenced by the places he has lived and worked — Lebanon, France, the United States and Britain — is in charge of all things savory, turning out elegant dishes in a kitchen the size of a van. And Hirayama (who grew up in Tokyo and San Francisco; went to college in New York, where the couple met; and kept a poster of a Pierre Hermé macaron on the wall of her office when she was a lawyer) does all the baking of breads, chubby loaf cakes, flaky fruit crostatas and those cookies.

The cookies are thick and chunky, even pucklike; craggy and rough around the edges; neither dainty nor unreasonably large. Some are smudged with chocolate; some have sesame seeds; all bear the marks of the baker’s hands. It was the ones with chocolate that interested me most. As an American baker, I knew that the inspiration for them must have been the classic chocolate-chip cookie, yet they were nothing like the usual. From their looks, I guessed they’d be good; I couldn’t have guessed that they’d turn into a meditation on the genre.'>>>

https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/03/magazine/chocolate-chip-cookie-cranberry-paris.html?

Mokonuts’ Rye-Cranberry Chocolate-Chunk Cookies
https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1019534-mokonuts-rye-cranberry-chocolate-chunk-cookies


Oh well, have to work on SOMETHING for breakfast, and think about visiting MY patisserie sometime next week!

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